One of my favorite teachers, ‘M’e A, is very concerned about how Americans perceive Lesotho. I have kindly informed her most Americans have never even heard of Lesotho and as a result they have no opinions on Lesotho. I have had discussions with her about how I am a bridge between America and Lesotho and explained part of why I am here is for the cultural exchange. Of course, she wants to know exactly what I tell all of you; the funny stories about school field trips, the tales of my very pregnant dog and me, the way the school works, and general information about my family. All this pleased her, however, she wants me to encourage you not to undermine Lesotho. This is where cultures collide.
In a lot of ways, ‘M’e A is right, “Lesotho is moving up.” When I signed up for Peace Corps I never dreamed I would have electricity, internet every week or so, or a phone that allows me to talk to those back home. My school has running water and a toilet. They have electricity and the set up for gas (sadly, no gas) in the science lab. I had no idea how easy it would be to find granny smith apples and a variety of at least two other fruits and vegetables, depending on the season. There are gravel roads being paved every time I turn my head. A few families in my village even have satellite dishes and TVs. This country has more than one would expect (or at least I expected) from a third world forgotten African country.
Now you are probably wondering why life is so tough. After adjusting, general living is not so bad. (I am still quite thankful it is only temporary!) I might spend a good portion of my day cooking food that could be made instantly with processed American goodness, the entire weekend washing clothes by hand, pass urine in a bucket after dark, gather water from a very unreliable tap a 100 meters from my house, and rely on public transportation (or my own two feet) to get from point A to B. I’ve determined the living is not what makes life rough.
Is Lesotho moving up? No and Yes. Volunteer me often wonders why I am here. I hate to report that I there is very little hope for this country. That sounds pessimistic and awful, it’s honest. Everything (education, health, politics, the environment, foreign aid) seems to operate on a one step forward nine steps backwards pattern. The country just can’t seem to catch a break! My own host organization (Peace Corps) has been here for over 40 years and nothing has changed. Sure we all influence one or two people throughout our service. I have definitely mastered the village friend role, for the idealist “changing” one (two, three, or four) people is not enough.
Education definitely plays a large role in the future success of any country. When your education system is failing your country is failing. To a degree this is happening in America right now. Their high school diploma is only valid in their own country as South African universities view their education worthless. Families might have satellite dishes and TVs even though their children do not get fed at night. I want to remain positive but it’s hard for me to negate the facts and statistics against this country: Lesotho now has the lowest life expectancy (yay, new discouraging statistics!), the highest HIV/AIDS rate (recently surpassing Botswana), AND Lesotho is the only country with a rising HIV/AIDS rate in the world. It’s the general hopelessness for this country and my inability to help out that makes living here a challenge.
When material possessions (clothes, cars, cell phones) are the only things that determine your status in the world then Lesotho is moving up. I remember pre-departure being extremely excited about escaping materialistic America. We might take materialism to the extreme in America; sadly I have discovered “wanting/needing” materials must be human instinct. There is a lot of heart here, there is a lot of good here, and there are plenty who are trying to improve the country. People are generally happy and full of life. I continue to learn so much by living among the Basotho and anticipate coming home to America taking life in stride the way Basotho do, even when everything seems to be working against me. Some days are easy, others are hard. On occasion I make progress on one of my projects, most days I am holding on for dear life.
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