The Place: So the story claims Manuel Antonio put Costa Rica on the map. It began in the early 1990s when an ecotourism wave hit Manuel Antonio, the 'eco-boom' came as quickly as it went, spiraling Costa Rica irreversibly forward into a tourism (sans eco) hotspot. Thou shall not be too critical of dear old Costa Rica, once the leader of deforestation in Central America... these billion visitors have halted the slashing of our much needed, much depleted oxygen emitters. Martha Honey, author of the 2008 publication Ecotourism and Sustainable Development, alleges deforestation has been reduced by 98% since the boom. Go statistics(!!!). What this boils down to is if you bought property along the winding road that swings inland and out to an overview of the expansive Pacific Ocean around my time of birth and you have half a brain, you are doing quite well... if success is judged by financial state. And if you are me, a close replica or a wannabe, you can--for twice the rate of the rest of Costa Rica's dreamy locations--visit Manuel Antonio and continuing marking success by the number of smiles you share along the way.
Lonely Planet paints a picture of the "serpentine route that passes over a number of hills awash with picturesque views of forested slopes leading down to the palm fringed coastline" too few pass up. On a minimalist budget there will plenty of opportunities to stroll this route on foot. I would be remiss not to admit the beaches, particularly those harvested inside Manuel Antonio National Park, are stunning. Manuel Antonio, in short, is for those not concerned with high prices, interested in 'worldly' people watching and guarding your belongings with the life of your travel-mate while you splash in the water, and being pestered with the sales of authentic trinkets and snacks (Takers for condensed milk on ice?). Pretty enough for a pause, definitely not my favorite place.
The Lodging: We stayed on the secured property in "Uncle" J's guesthouse. Everything Manuel Antonio lacked in appeal was made up for by our home for the week. Here is a taste of our treatment: windows floor-to-ceiling providing natural light and gorgeous views, a shared king size bed, room to unpack and spread out--sprawled on sofas for napping, rocking chairs for reading, a large wooden table for journaling, a shower with cold and hot settings, a maid(!!!) including laundry service, and a private kitchen. The pictures will tell the rest of the story:
The Activity: The time in Manuel Antonio was spent as I imagine others 'do vacation.' Slow mornings, capped off with late breakfast meals at Costa Linda became the routine. This (amazing) restaurant sits outside Manuel Antonio National Park and packs a killer deal--a first plate loaded with fruit and a pancake, followed by a second plate of gallo pinto con huevos and bread. Plate one is feature below; I was much to anxious to capture plate two, on each of our ten visits. The coffee is piping hot (and unlimited) and the seating is outdoors. The price tag: 1800 Colones (approximately $3.60). I cannot express the number of time I (over) dined at Costa Linda.
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| (Two-Toed Sloth) |
Mostly we wined and dined our time away. Whether the cooking took place in or out, the speed was always vacation pace... and late. This might have been the reason I experienced my only minor bout of stomach troubles here in Manuel Antonio, luckily I had agua pipa (coconut water) chopped right from the tree to hydrate me back to health. No big deal.
This was Manuel Antonio.
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