Mal Pais, Costa Rica

The Dates: January 15-17, 2012

The Place: Mal Pais literally translates to 'Bad Country,' though I recall quite the opposite. People, namely Germans, come to Mal Pais to enjoy Mal Pais; I was one (American) among several (German) travelers up early to seize my tranquil surroundings. This mini paradise sits on the Southwestern corner of the Nicoya Peninsula, a town noted by Lonely Planet to be "famous among surfers for consistent waves." The place has a true Costa Rican* atmosphere--unpaved roads lined with brightly decorated shops and palm trees. The unpaved coastal road makes for an insanely high 'dust count' and four-wheelers racing through the street spew extra dirt particles into the air to worsen the condition. The expansive Pacific Ocean, with its welcoming breeze, lies a mere 100 meters away from this road... escaping the brown air is a cinch.

The Lodging: Cuesta Arriba. This hostel is situated in a tropical garden--wildlife abounding, across the street from a 100-meter long Santa Teresa Beach access trail, yet far enough away the ocean was muted. At $18 a night, the most expensive lodging of the trip, I did not exactly feel spoiled. On the second night, I was confined to a twin size bed with K.F.A., for the exact same rate. And zero water pressure meant no showers. Cuesta Arriba does have a pool--idyllically placed for maintaining a refreshing water temperature--in the shade of a tree that seemed to house a large family of vocal howler monkeys. In a country struggling with water supply and sanitation, I questioned the luxury of such an accommodation. Turn off your brain. Life will be more enjoyable if you forgo inundating your thought pattern with the wrongness of each picture. These were my thoughts as I sought refuge from the heat in the pool.

The Book I Started: The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo by Stieg Larsson

The Activity: I found my travel rhythm here--motionless on the beach. If my book slowed, I peeked my head up to watch surfers do their thing. Their talents entertained... and distracted me from Blomkvist and Slander... for hours. To open the day, I was content with parading the town on foot. And to close the day, there were sunset beach strolls.

The Thoughts: Multiple journal entries in Mal Pais revealed delirious thoughts. I mentioned (several times) splurging on an avocado sandwich by adding both tomato and cucumber. I noted further downing an entire bag of trail mix to ensure nutrition for dinner the previous night, breakfast and lunch of that current day. My 'travel rhythm' was being defined by an inability--at 24--to feed myself; it was feasible I was lethargic on the beach because I was starving.

Then I go on and on about how clean I was after a couple minute dip in the hostel pool. Chlorine does a good number on bacteria through a simple chemical reaction in water, but since when has the element been a human cleansing agent? I had four weeks left to figure out (a suitable diet plan and) a semi-hygienic regimen for Central American travel.

*Truthfully, I am not even sure what a "Costa Rican" atmosphere is anymore. The near seven-year span between my two trips to Costa Rica opened my eyes to the demolition done to the country's culture, animal and plant diversity and landscape by, my assumption, tourism. If you have not already noticed this trend, please watch it flourish as I am going to harp--hard and heavy--on the human driven change to Costa Rica. I might decide the topic deserves its own post altogether... where I will promise to present an entirely biased argument. (And four weeks left to come to terms with the fact I was a tourist in Costa Rica, for a second time.)

This was Mal Pais.