Koh Rong, Cambodia

The moon was full while we were visiting Koh Rong. As a Peace Corps Volunteer, I loved full moons since that meant having a natural night light in a world of very limited electricity. The moonlight by itself would be bright enough to cast your shadow alongside you while you walked outside. BUT on Koh Rong, the ocean was full of bioluminescent plankton that when disturbed by waves or a swimmer, would light up the water. We learned that clear, dark, calm nights were the best for seeing the plankton and were told our best chances to see them during our stay was likely early, early morning – 3:00 am early morning – when the moon was down. On our first morning, Husband woke at 4:00 am to go check the plankton. This should have been my job as I spent a restless night waiting for plankton like a kid on Christmas morning. It turned out to be not a good viewing night, so we were both back to sleep. I was not terribly worried as we would have two more chances over the course of our stay.

Sometime later that morning, at a slightly more reasonable hour, we rose and enjoyed some time reading on our front porch prior to breakfast. The morning was super muggy and we were in sluggish, total vacation mode. A little before lunch, we decided to hike to a local village for exploring. The trail threaded through the jungle, between cashew and mango groves, and past herds of grazing water buffalo. At the end was a clearing with the semi-official entrance to the village: a sturdy bamboo bridge whose high arch allowed boats to pass through the river underneath on their way to their marine fishing grounds. On the other side was Preksway Village. The village ended up being larger than we expected, with a semi-established eco-tourism business. The business was run by a one man show, Johnny. He could arrange guides and boat trips all over the island, ran an English and service industry school for the locals, and could set you up with a great meal. We ordered lunch from him and not so patiently awaited our feast. Another incredibly successful meal of fried red snapper, calamari, and a vegetable salad with rice was worth way more than the cost and wait. And just when we thought we couldn’t eat anymore, we were delivered a “welcome coconut” to drink and eat. It was a monster – easily the largest coconut either of us had ever seen – a Siamese twin sized coconut.

Afterwards, I encouraged Husband to walk further through the jungle with me. Up over the crest of the island we went and down onto the other side where we found an isolated beach that had so much potential, if you could just look past the discarded garbage that had washed up from the sea. There was orange sand, large rocks, and palm trees encroaching upon the ocean. Another location as isolated and beautiful as Lonely Beach, just truly deserted except for two lone souls visiting on their honeymoon. After taking some time to explore and snap a few photos, we headed back through the village, over the bridge, and towards our bungalow. After getting a bit turned around in the labyrinth of water buffalo paths before asking for directions from a sweet old lady wielding some large iron weapon meant for chopping down coconuts, we were able to find our way safely back before dark.

We went for another evening swim, skipped dinner due to our massive lunch, and ended the night in bean bags working on crossword puzzles. Another full mooned night passed without a plankton sighting.

We started our third day much the same as our prior beach days: slow. For our activity, we rented snorkel gear from the bar and swam to the nearby reef that was just around the corner in the next cove. This was my first time snorkeling. There were so many firsts on this vacation, and we were not even one week in! The viewing highlights were tons of black spindly sea urchins and a school of brightly colored parrot fish. There was also lots of dead coral and tons of non-picturesque fish.

All the activity worked up an appetite, so naturally lunch was next followed by a lounge in the hammocks. As the afternoon progressed, we watched a storm roll in. The clouds brought a steep drop the temperatures, blew away all the mosquitoes, and captivated me. I was more than willing to sacrifice a sunset for a storm. Though sunsets are the reason I travel to the beach, storms – above all – are my favorite; quality storms roll in off the ocean. This storm would not disappoint.

The gray storm clouds were also able to block out the moon, leaving the night pitch dark – perfect for viewing the plankton. We waded out into the ocean, braving the growing waves and rain to try to stir up some life. All around our ankles there were sparks of activity. The plankton would light our feet as we splashed through the water, trying to coax the algae into action. The plankton were tired after getting worked over by the waves, but they gave us a very cool, although short-lived light show.

As if this rustic stay hadn't already won me over, getting to see the plankton was the icing on the cake. I thought I had experienced the best of both worlds...

Until the following day...

Travel Day, From Coast to Island

The day started with the gluttonous buffet at the resort, again. Husband and I then spent the morning on the beach before we packed for our next destination. Though our sleep schedules align with the elderly, I felt entirely out of our element throughout our stay at Sohka Beach Resort, where the guests were mostly early retirees happy to spend their days by the pool and nights at the casino, eschewing the beach and culture in favor of the safety and ease of the resort. I was ready to move onto our next adventure: Koh Rong Island, famous as the home to both the 31st and 32nd season of Survivor, for those remaining diehard fans (of which Husband and I are now two).

We experienced the rest of Sihanoukville by day on our long tuk tuk ride, away from the tourist trap main strip towards Royal Pier, the local fishing port where we were to meet our “ferry”. On either side of the pier was a series of handmade boats tied together and double parked, all inter-connected by rickety wooden (i.e., death) planks. Our tuk tuk driver directed us to our boat and after Husband made several trips back and forth the death planks to drop off our bags on boat, we headed to the nearby stalls to stock up on cheap bottled water for the next few days. The local stalls smelled strongly of banana flavoring, yet there were no bananas in sight, but we were successful in finding two cases of water. When we returned, we were told that the first boat had unknown mechanical problems and would not be moving that day. Instead we were transferred to a second boat, Husband again making several harrowing journeys with our luggage and newly purchased cases of water across the plank. We departed soon after aboard Boat No. 2.

The ride lasted between two and three hours on the calmest seas – flat as a lake. On the boat, we met some of our travelers – including a group of young Australians who were stopping at the resort before ours, a family of four from Texas who were taking the year off to travel, and other assorted folks traveling in ones and twos who were to be the only other guests at Lonely Beach. For the last part of the journey, we rode up on the top deck of the boat, which was little more than the roof with an extra awning that helped keep the most intense part of the sun off of you. We skirted along the coast of Koh Rong, trying to spy the Lonely Beach bungalows around each bend. After dropping off the first group of Australians, our boat traveled the final 45 minutes up along the coast of Koh Rong before anchoring where if you knew where to look, you could just catch a glimpse of the bungalows that were hidden back amongst the palms. Two small tenders puttered out from the beach to greet us – one to take the people and the other to take the luggage. Upon getting to shore, we were greeted with delicious iced tea, an explanation of the place, and shown our private bungalow. We lucked out with our open view from Bungalow No. 8, which was set back about 100 yards from the beach and where we could look out over the water through a few sparse palm trees. The bungalow was equipped with three big windows and an attached porch with a hammock and rocking chair. Inside there was a queen sized bed with a simple mattress, blanket, pillows and mosquito net, a desk, and hooks to hang all of your beach clothes on. While there were solar powered lights in the bedroom, bathroom, and deck, there was no running water and the toilet and shower were bucket-based. Simple, but everything you need for a few days at the beach. We were about 200 yards from the common area of Lonely Beach which acted as front desk, restaurant, library, bar, and game room. It was a cozy open air place with large tables and bean bags galore to have your dinner, play jenga, or just sit and read.

We settled in for an early-ish dinner on our first night and confirmed the food was delicious. After my success in choosing the yummy vegetable curry with tofu, I wanted to try everything offered during our short stay. As an aside, finding vegetables was difficult throughout our trip. There was fruit galore to be found nearly everywhere we went, but vegetables seemed an afterthought most times, so this meal won bonus points for its high veggie density. More bonus points because all the food had to be boated in from the mainland. Bonus, bonus, bonus points for the very reasonable prices, when they could have charged you anything they wanted since this restaurant provide the only available. Maybe I was just famished? I have strong positive memories associated with this particular meal.

Then it was time for my favorite part of any day: sunset. The tide was way out and there was thousands of crabs scampering up and down the beach. We swam out into the warm, shallow water to watch the sun go down and escape the “mosquito hour”, which prior to then I had never done. I was always told that sharks were most active at sunset and that was enough to keep me out of the water at feeding time, but at Koh Rong we were promised that there were no hungry sharks prowling.

We survived for another day.

Jamaica: No Lotion Friday (Day 7)

Is it the last day of vacation that makes one fully appreciate all the days before? On Day 7, we all agreed we could use more days like the one we were living--time together, minimal planned activities, and good eats.

Following another sluggish run, I had the best breakfast yet: ackee and saltfish, a traditional Caribbean dish. And later, way later as the sun set before me one last time from our pool deck at Treasure Beach, a fabulous lobster dinner. In between I filled the time by the pool reading and swimming in the ocean. Boyfriend and I also made fancy cocktails with fruit we froze earlier in the week. I tried to relish in our last day together. As I'm writing this with a cup of coffee on Day 8, I can say I already miss our company. The time we had together was a such special occasion, one I will look back on for many years to come. I'm having trouble wrapping my thoughts around this week, not that I need to. The best I can provide is a sunset comparison. When skin is sun-kissed, spirits are playful, the breeze is warm, the water glistens, there is not a care in this world but to be present in that moment.

Sunsets are a time of perspective and reflection--two things I love--but I think there is more to it. The main reason I love sunsets is because the harsh, intense, rush of the day is over and a warm glow settles in that puts everything in a softer, more forgiving light.The pressure to perform wears away--what's done is done--it is time to reign things in and put the day to bed.

Jamaica: Day 6

This fabulous vacation is nearing it's end. And with that, today a theory was decided upon. As vacations ramp up, time often moves slowly... until the halfway point has passed, when time seemingly flies. This is an unfortunate reality I'm experiencing, but I didn't let that stop me from enjoying each moment of Day 6.

Breakfast on this morning was sort of a letdown, which was honestly nice. I needed one meal on this trip where I didn't feel like I was out to win an eating competition of sorts. I had the added bonus of starting the day with a run. These runs haven't been as pleasant as my at-home winter jaunts. My legs feel as though I'm lugging bricks along. The scenery has stolen the show; helping cope with some of the extra weight.

Bamboo Alley 

100+ Year Old Bamboo - Protected by Law

After breakfast, we headed to St. Elizabeth parish for the Appleton Estate Rum Tour. The tour was every bit as wonderfully cheesy as one might expect. The tour starts with "complimentary" gingery rum drinks and finishes with as many shots of eight different rums as one can consume before the Tour Guide closes the bottles. It was a total free for all with some of America's greatest spectacles elbowing each other out of the way for the chance to take samples of coffee flavored rums. Due to a Boyfriend engaged in brewing and various illegal acts of at-home distilling, I was pre-informed about most of the information provided. Refresher courses are never bad, especially when you're treated to pure sugar cane juice and a spoonful of molasses brown sugar syrup during the lecture. And did I mention unlimited tastings? Those too!

Paz, the Sugarcane Donkey

8000+ Barrels of Rum

The heart on the barrel label represents the heart of Jamaica, where Appleton Rum is made.

A mini set up of the distillery, where photography is not allowed.

The most interesting fact though is the setting of the Appleton Rum Distillery. It's surrounded--the full 360 degrees--by limestone bumpy mountains to protect the distillery from hurricanes. Appleton Rum has been around since 1749, so I'd say to the mountains: job well done.

I left feeling as though I had had my share of rum, and rum isn't even my thing. I even purchased a bottle or four. We migrated to Maggoty for jerk and fried chicken, and the people watching changed dramatically--from America's to Jamaica's finest. This was shaping out to be quite the day.

With a full belly, we left for more food--street food, simply the best. There were plenty of coconuts to go around, coconut "cake," and sugar cane stalks. For the first time, I was able to sample the jelly of an immature coconut. I still think I'm a fan of the more mature coconut, but I do not turn down coconut in any form. Ever. And from there we were on to Santa Cruz, high in the mountains where we picked up roasted peanuts from the car window. The town must be a decent size because we came upon our first stop light since leaving Montego Bay. This is where the drive got interesting. While the rum tour was fun and the street food made my day, the climb up into the Santa Cruz mountains was truly spectacular. The road winds and winds and winds up some 2,500 feet in elevation. There were unique lush mountainous views until we crossed the peaks, where the expanse of the ocean came into view. My motion sickness held it together for the most part, and I was able to enjoy the ride.

As we were nearing the end of our drive, we stopped east of Treasure Beach at Lover's Leap. The story is as predicted by the name, and the surrounding sea cliff is landscaped to please. The views of the overhang were stunning. There was ocean for days. And contrasting blues and greens in the best ways.

We saw dolphins from the pool deck!

We made it home just before 5:00 pm, and I was wiped out. I recall a pleasant sunset and a veggie-packed dinner, with a bed time around 8:30 pm. This is the vacation life.